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Pleats Trimmed

2012-04-07

After basting the pleats, I tailor-basted the right underapron and left apron edges of the kilt. I believe this step is more critical to wool tartan kilt, as the shaping aligns stripes along non-square edges. Because this alignment results in a bit of bunching in the fabric, the tailor basting helps distribute the wrinkles for pressing. During pressing, the wool stretches gracefully and everything evens out. With my denim I had nothing to align, so there really wasn’t much bunching to even out. I did the stitches regardless, as the deep pleat and inverted pleat both still need to be held in place for pressing.

Photo of kilt in progress with cut pleats

Then, finally, it was time to cut the excess material off of the kilt above the fell line. Here it’s more obvious than ever that my fell line is quite skewed… the effect on the final fit and finish of the garment remains to be seen, but thankfully this all gets covered up with the next steps in construction.