Steeking, Stabilizer and Underapron Canvas


I’m on to the final structural work now. Across the bottom of the trimmed pleats is the steeking, a row of stitches to strenghten the bottom of the fell. (In this photo you can see where I trimmed a couple of the pleats too low. When going by feel, I mistook the pleat basting for fell stitching and cut too far by mistake. Lesson learned. I don’t think this will affect the end result too disastrously, but I’ll make a point not to do it again.)

Photo of steeking stabilizer

Also pictured is the stabilizer, a strip of cloth sewn across the pleats to reinforce the waistline.

Next comes the canvas - for this kilt I am using heavy-duty synthetic interfacing as opposed to hair canvas, based on recommendations I’d read about using cotton or cotton blend materials; if the garment is later washed and the hair canvas and kilt material shrink at different rates, it could be bad news. So far I’ve basted and stitched the underapron canvas to the kilt:

Photo of underapron canvas