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Practice Kilt Finished

2012-04-18

Photo of completed kilt from the front

I finished my practice kilt Monday night. The last step was the lining, which I admit to rushing and fudging a bit. According to The Art of Kiltmaking, the back lining should curve gracefully and gather in several darts. The way I first sewed it on I only wound up with one dart - I think this is also partly due to there not being as much of a curve along the pleats because of how they were skewed.

Photo of lining in progress

I haven’t had it on for a long enough time to get a sense of how it may settle in, or what adjustments may work best. Overall I think the fit is really pretty good; it sits snug around my natural waist without any weird puckering or sagging, and the length seems pretty good. I may add half an inch to the length of my next one.

The pleats hang nicely despite all the issues I had with the fell:

Photo of pleats from the back

The biggest issue with the way the kilt turned out is the shaping of the apron. Early on I mentioned that I did not flare the apron lines, leaving them on a straight angle instead; I had read somewhere that the cotton fiber would not lend itself to as much shaping as wool or poly viscose. On the finished kilt, the result of this more conservative apron shaping is that the apron edge does not curve around and hang straight down at the inverted pleat, and it on the other side it “kicks” a little bit where the pleats start; it wants to curve forward slightly and pulls the first couple of pleats open a bit. (That may also be due to my deep pleat being a bit skimpy.) It’s not catastrophic given the all-black appearance, and now I have a much better understanding of how the apron shape, deep pleat and inverted pleat work on a finished kilt. If I had angled the apron edges out another inch or so it might have done the trick.